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Scotland's Hidden
Gems
Samples from Chapters 3, 7, and 9
From Chapter 3: Central Scotland around Crieff:
Our last
suggestion may seem like we left the least interesting for last. In reality,
we saved the best for last. A visit to the Innerpeffray Library, Chapel,
and Schoolhouse is a must as far as we’re concerned. This is Scotland’s
oldest lending library and is still used for research and genealogical
study. Situated on the River Earn, four miles southeast of Crieff on B8062,
the library is a trip back into history. It’s also a trip down a single
track road, at least for the last half mile. On one visit, we were following
a slow-moving car, and could not figure out why the car was creeping. Then I
spotted a whole bunch of little feet underneath the front of the car.
Scurrying along just ahead of the car was a covey of grouse, going as fast
as their little legs would take them. They never did fly, but finally
scooted off the road, under a fence, and into the field. We have visited
Innerpeffray three times, and each time the curator/librarian, Ted Powell,
has shown us wonderful old works being preserved in the library. On one
visit we saw a 16th Century world atlas which showed the West Coast of the
U.S. above San Francisco as a squiggly, featureless line running up into the
unknown. On another visit, we saw a 15th Century “bestiary,” with
descriptions and paintings of all manner of beasts. For example, a
rhinoceros depicted as a beast wearing armor plates was obviously drawn from
a description of a rhino as an animal with thick, armored hide. The setting
for the library, chapel, and schoolhouse is isolated now, but originally it
was on a major Roman road. When the bridge over the River Earn collapsed in
the mid-1800s, and was later rebuilt several miles away, Innerpeffray became
the outpost it is today. The library is not open all the time, but brochures
available at the Tourist Information Centre in Crieff and at many B&Bs will
tell you the schedule. Indeed, if you find you have the time, Innerpeffray
would be first on our list of fascinating places to visit around Crieff.
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From Chapter
7: THE BORDERS and EAST LOTHIANS around Peebles:
A short 12 miles northwest of Peebles, via A72 and
B7059, is the fairly flat moorland tract of West Linton Golf Club.
This 1890, James Braid-designed, eighteen-hole course is an enjoyable
contrast to the hills at Peebles GC. The staff at West Linton have been
particularly friendly and accommodating the three times we visited. It is
one to which we keep returning. In fact, Carl, at Lindores House in Peebles
tells a story about actor Michael Landon who, just before he died from
cancer, stayed in the area to play West Linton because he appreciated how
they treated him. Several holes stick in our memory. The sixth, Mendick,
a 360-yard par 4, starts with a slightly downhill tee shot to a
well-bunkered fairway, which narrows near the green. Try to stay in the
middle, lest trees on both sides encroach on your second shot to the green,
also well bunkered. Woolfe’s Wood, the par 4, 447-yard eighth is the
number-one handicap hole, for good reason. A blind tee shot to a fairway
which falls away left is a challenging start. The long second shot, through
a slight dogleg right, is to a green with heavy rough, and out of bounds
right and bunkers left. This hole, for me, plays as a testing par 5 instead
of a par 4--it’s a good example of a hole which should be played with my own
personal par in mind, regardless of what the card says. Following this long
par 4 is the difficult Kittley Knowe (knowe meaning
“hillock”), an interesting 162-yard par 3. At the furthest limit of the
course, you play to an elevated, forward-sloping green with a large bunker
left, and a drop off on all other sides. Anne noted a sense of hugeness of
the course here, because we could barely see the clubhouse off in the
distance. It’s at this point in your round that you may wish the Scots placed
more toilets on their courses. Though, between the ninth green and tenth tee
there is a convenient (and often used) stand of trees. West Linton has
provided some enjoyable memories, outside of the golf itself. During one
round, we watched sheep dogs work a flock in the fields adjacent to the
fourteenth hole. Scotland offers several places where tourist can find more
formal demonstrations of working dogs, but it was a treat to watch them in
their everyday work. We have also had good experiences with pairing up with
other golfers at West Linton. We’ve never had a bad experience pairing up in
Scotland, and the retired civil servant we played with here in 2000 was a
delight. He had a wealth of knowledge of the course and the area, and a
memorable way of saying “Oh, no!” to each bad shot I made that day (and
there were several). West Linton GC also has a relatively new clubhouse
(1997) with snacks available midday to evening most days.
From Chapter 9: AYR, ISLE
ARRAN, and KINTYRE:
On Isle Arran we
stayed at a fantastic B&B called Kilmichael’s. It’s the oldest house on the
island, built on land granted by King Robert the Bruce in the 1300s. Its
breakfast was wonderful and the dinners are legendary, but they are also
very, very expensive. And since the price for the lodging was very high
(almost twice that of Traquair House), Anne and I chose to find a good pub
meal and save almost $100. In downtown Brodick we found the Brodick Bar
and Brasserie.
What a find! Across from the post office at the north end of the village,
the pub here is modern, light, and airy with lots of windows. Ian McFadzean,
the owner, told us that this section had been redesigned in the past year,
but that there was a bit of history to the place. Even though it’s been
through several incarnations, it was still recommended by the Kilmichael
staff. The building is over 40 years old, and Ian’s father bought it about
25 years ago. The bar is still in the original bar building, and the
brasserie section was first a house, then a pub-function room. The
Brasserie, featuring light walls with dark-wood accents, has been the family
serving area for about ten years. One of the best features of the Brasserie
is the chalkboard menu, with its 30 to 40 color- coded items--starters,
fish, beef, lamb, fowl, sweets. Food portions were very generous, and
everything we’ve tried has been very outstanding. During one meal, we shared
an excellent Mussels ala Marinara Soup, and ended with Sultana Sponge
Pudding with Sauce Anglaise. This is a lively, friendly place where, over a
tasty malt, we’ve compared golfing notes with people who played different
courses. Brodick Bar and Brasserie is a place where we always like to stop.
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Scotland's Hidden Gems
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